June 16, 2009 - AW2 Soldier SPC Dave Shebib, AW2 Solder LTC Marc Hoffmeister, and Bob Haines (left to right) unfurl the Military Order of the Purple Heart guidon, proudly honoring their fellow combat wounded from the summit of Denali.
AW2 Soldier LTC Marc Hoffmeister was recently named by National Geographic as one of their “Adventurers of the Year” for his successful climb of Mount McKinley (also known as Denali) as part of Operation Denali. Hoffmeister was the team leader of a group of wounded warriors who set out to climb the 20,320 ft. summit in order to symbolize their strength and perseverance over adversity.
In April 2007, LTC Hoffmeister was severely injured while serving in Iraq when an IED outside of Al Hillah blew up his Humvee. Hoffmeister was evacuated to Germany and then back to the U.S. where he had eight surgeries on his arm and endured months of painful rehabilitation.
Recently, I had the pleasure of chatting with LTC Hoffmeister about his experiences as an outdoor adventurer. Click here to read the rest of the article from National Geographic and click here to vote for AW2 Soldier LTC Hoffmeister in the National Geographic Reader’s Choice Awards for “Adventurer of the Year.”
Below is the second part of my interview with LTC Hoffmeister, please click here to read Part I.
1) How has being an outdoor adventurer prepared you to transition back to the Army?
I believe that every challenge I face in the back country makes me a better Soldier and leader. Whether climbing or skiing local peaks, summiting Denali, or completing a 100 mile Arctic Mountain Bike race across frozen Alaska, I’m forced to constantly control fear, evaluate risk, balance it against my ability and equipment, then mitigate that risk and move forward. It’s not that different than what we do in the military really — except that it’s what I do for fun!
2) Your wife, Gayle, has obviously been a big factor in your recovery. Do you mind sharing how your relationship has made you stronger?
Life is hard in the military these days, no reason to sugar coat it. I was wounded during my third deployment. The stresses on families of repeated deployments are hard enough and the added stress of being wounded and the subsequent recovery process make for some long days. My wife has sacrificed an incredible amount of herself to create the conditions for me to recover as much as possible. From sacrificing all of her leave time to be at my hospital bedside, to caring for me during home recovery and shouldering the full burden of maintaining the home and family while I struggled to get my feet back under me, she did it all.
She is an amazingly strong woman and her efforts go largely unrecognized. She is the unsung hero that has enabled me to achieve my dreams and I am forever indebted to her. I strive each day to try and give back even a portion of what she has given me even though she doesn’t expect or want me to.
3) What does your AW2 Advocate think of you climbing mountains and engaging in other outdoor events? How has your AW2 Advocate supported your adventures?
The AW2 program, specifically Michael Hamm, enabled me to build the team by getting the word out in the beginning. AW2 is an important communal forum where we can bond, share experiences, and build opportunities. Operation Denali is an example of that.
4) I’ve heard that when you aren’t climbing mountains that you work for a foundation that provides service dogs to injured Soldiers and Veterans. Can you describe what your foundation does and what it means to you to support other wounded warriors?
It’s not a foundation in itself, but a program we’ve set up with the local chapter of the Military Order of the Purple Heart, the State of Alaska Department of Corrections, and the Hiland Mountain Correctional Center. The inmates at the correctional center participate in a rehabilitative program in which they train service dogs for the disabled. We work with the program to match wounded warriors in need of a service dog and facilitate the dog’s training for the specific needs of the individual. The program is a great example of Veterans helping Veterans. I think it’s important that we all recognize the generosity of the many people and programs out there to assist us in our recovery.
When we are able, it is important to contribute to the fight and find ways to help our fellow wounded, even if it’s as simple as helping a nonprofit group recruit Soldiers for a local fishing trip or a dinner meal. All AW2 Soldiers and Veterans should all strive to inspire those in the early phases of recovery that there is light at the end of the tunnel, that life is worth living and that there is always a way to overcome the obstacles which confront you.
5) Anything else you would like to add?
As an avid outdoorsman, I live by a simple maxim, “When in doubt, go up!”
It’s a pretty good analogy for life if you think about it. Going up is never easy, but once you get to the top, the view is exceptional, you can clearly see the route back home, and way down can be a hell of a lot of fun if you pick the right path.
And speaking of going up and getting other AW2 Soldiers and Veterans involved – while on Denali, we met several instructors from the Army Mountain Warfare School in Jericho, VT. One of their instructors, Bert Severin, is also Director of Sunrise Adventures, www.sunriseadventuresports.com, and is hosting the annual ice climbing festival at Smuggler’s Notch in Jeffersonville, VT, from January 29-31, 2010. This is a huge, civilian event, details are on the website, and Bert would like to extend the invitation to any interested Wounded Warriors to participate. The clinic is free to wounded warriors and Sunrise Adventure Sports will provide the climbing equipment and training to get you up the ice. I will post all the details in an upcoming blog, but if the thought of putting axe to ice gets your heart pumping and you’re ready to go now, call Bert at (802)730-2978 and get on the list. You’ll have to work transportation, food and lodging, but Bert and his crew are eager to help out and get you on the mountain. So get out there and experience the freedom of the hills!
The appearance of external hyperlinks does not constitute endorsement by the United States Department of Defense of the linked web sites, or the information, products or services contained therein. For other than authorized activities such as military exchanges and Morale, Welfare and Recreation (MWR) sites, the United States Department of Defense does not exercise any editorial control over the information you may find at these locations.
The Operation Denali team poses for a photo before their climb. Front row, left to right: Marc Hoffmeister, Gayle Hoffmeister, Todd Tumolo, Dave Shebib, and Matt Nyman. Back row, left to right: Bob Haines, Jon Kuniholm, Matt Montavon, and Kirby Senden. Photo courtesy of LTC Marc Hoffmeister
AW2 Soldier LTC Marc Hoffmeister was recently named by National Geographic as one of their “Adventurers of the Year” for his successful climb of Mount McKinley (also known as Denali) as part of Operation Denali. Hoffmeister was the team leader of a group of wounded warriors who set out to climb the 20,320 ft. summit in order to symbolize their strength and perseverance over adversity.
In April 2007, LTC Hoffmeister was severely injured while serving in Iraq when an IED outside of Al Hillah blew up his Humvee. Hoffmeister was evacuated to Germany and then back to the U.S. where he had eight surgeries on his arm and endured months of painful rehabilitation.
Recently, I had the pleasure of chatting with LTC Hoffmeister about his experiences as an outdoor adventurer. Click here to read the rest of the article from National Geographic and click here to vote for AW2 Soldier LTC Hoffmeister in the National Geographic Reader’s Choice Awards for “Adventurer of the Year.”
Below is the first part of my interview with LTC Hoffmeister, so be sure to check back tomorrow for Part II.
1) How does it feel to be named to National Geographic’s “Adventurer of the Year” list?
It’s both an unexpected and awesome feeling to be recognized on a national scale and among such an impressive group of recipients, but more than anything it feels a bit awkward to be singled out for something that was a team accomplishment. The team members of Operation Denali came together to do a singularly remarkable thing and it took everyone’s effort and courage to achieve it. I am proud of the honor but want everyone to recognize that every member of our team is an Adventurer of the Year — their willingness to embrace the challenge of our mission was inspirational.
2) What motivated you to get back into outdoor adventures?
My wife Gayle pushed me early on in my recovery to get back to what we love to do in the outdoors. Whether she knew it or not (and I believe she did), the act of getting back into the mountains was spiritually cleansing and rehabilitative. It gave me the motivation to regain my independence.
3) What were some of the challenges that your team in Operation Denali faced during the climb?
We faced the same challenges of any high altitude expedition: heavy loads, long movements, frigid cold, hypoxia due to altitude, and we faced all of those on top of managing limitations from our wounds.
Several of us have compromised nervous systems from our injuries which made us more susceptible to cold injuries and required diligence to avoid further injury. Managing technical tasks and gear distribution within the team in order to be as efficient as possible despite our injuries was important to try and maintain the health of each team member throughout the expedition.
4) Did you apply your military training and leadership skills to motivate your fellow team members during the climb?
I believe we all did at various times. During any physically strenuous endurance event or expedition, everyone has highs and lows. As a team, we bonded tightly enough to recognize who was having a good day and who was not. Those doing well would quietly pick up the slack for the others by carrying an extra piece of gear, digging in the cache of food/equipment, laying out or recovering ropes or helping to set the other rope team’s tent. We did this without any discussion, it was habit born of our shared experiences in the military and in combat.
5) Describe your thoughts when you reached the summit. What was your reaction to achieving a life-goal that you set for yourself long before your injury?
Probably not the answer you expect, but the summit was almost anticlimactic, partly because the weather had enveloped us in a swirl of snow but more so because the full team did not stand on top with us. It lent truth to the old adage that it was more about the journey than the summit. To better answer your question, let me quote my summit day journal from the climb:
“It’s been a long year’s journey to this point, but we did it. Only half the team managed to summit, but it took the entire team’s effort to make that happen. It truly saddens me that the full team didn’t top out, especially Gayle, my inspiration for the climb. At the same time, I’m struck by the parallel of our team’s efforts with that of our wounded warriors and fallen heroes. They may not have seen the fight thru to the end, or finished their combat deployment, but it was their sacrifices that enabled their unit’s success and our nation to win its wars and bring everyone else back home. I also think of the 53 Fallen Paratroopers and 356 wounded Spartans of my Brigade’s deployment to Iraq and I whisper a prayer for them and those already back out in the fight. This climb was for them in many ways and I hope they will somehow know that two Arctic Wounded Warriors of the 4th Brigade Combat Team (Airborne), 25th Infantry Division Spartans stood atop Denali in recognition of their sacrifice, bringing closure to a mission now complete.”
Remember to check back tomorrow for Part II of our interview with AW2 Soldier LTC Hoffmeister.
The appearance of external hyperlinks does not constitute endorsement by the United States Department of Defense of the linked web sites, or the information, products or services contained therein. For other than authorized activities such as military exchanges and Morale, Welfare and Recreation (MWR) sites, the United States Department of Defense does not exercise any editorial control over the information you may find at these locations.
It's that time of the year again, REI's biggest sale starts today and runs through 5/28/12. Time to gear up for the summer. Take 20% off one item with the coupon below.
Outside Magazine has a fun article this month that encourages readers to break the rules this summer and engage in activities that are the right mix of dangerous and fun.
Nothing in the article is especially outrageous, but each suggestion reminds me of the freedom summer meant when I was a kid. We got the boot every morning and spent the day outside, pushing the limits of what a 12 year old considered dangerous. No one died, no one even got all that hurt. Maybe a broken bone or two, but what's childhood without a cast upon which to scribe your name?
Of course, in typical Outside fashion, they do take cool ideas and make them nice and commercial.
Take, for example, rule # 6 "Rope Swings are Dangerous and Usually Illegal."
Not only do they instruct on the right type of tree to tie your rope swing to, but they offer a convenient link to a specific brand of climbing rope for you to use.
Or Rule # 3, "Stick to the Course." Outside suggests readers "[G]et some folks tougher at a trailhead. Plot a rough course. Ride or run (or both) like hell. Argue who won over beers." That's all pretty easy and free. But if you use the suggested social fitness app, the experience will be that much more fun. I guess Outside figures that getting some friends together to race a one-time, on-the-spot course is obviously more fun when you can use a computer program to compare your time with others.
OK, maybe I"m being a bit of cynic here. That's what they pay me for. Still, the article seems to miss the point in some respects. I guess at Outside, the one rule you can't break is taking advantage of product placement opportunities at every turn.
Now, get out there and make a rope swing with some old suspect rope you found in the garage or salvaged from a dumpster. Cross your fingers and go summer's here and it's time to break an arm.
I have a great news for you. Rungus Maranjak Longhouse Lodge is now online. If you like to stay a night with them, please contact them directly here: http://www.maranjaklonghouselodge.com/ Get in touch with them to discuss about the package that they could provide for you. They have made a lot of changes on the longhouse, [...]
It seems simple, but the reality is that many serious falls take place in places that should not be that technical. Many falls take place in spots that could easily be negotiated with good technique.
When I started working at the Institute, I had quite a bit of experience. I intrinsically understood the techniques for walking on snow and on ice, but they weren't well defined in my head. Well defined techniques lead to better techniques.
The primary snow/ice-walking technique that I'm referring to is the in-balance vs. out-of-balance step. These steps are designed to be used on 30 degree to 50 degree terrain. And if they are used properly, a climber will be able to ascend a slope with a great deal of security.
In-balance and out-of-balance (the cross-over step) walking provides you with stability and a strong sense of when you are safe and when you are not. With practice it allows climbers to move effectively and safely over steepish terrain.
When one is in-balance, both feet are situated in such a way that if you stop, you will be completely stable. I shot the above photo looking down at my feet while I was in-balance. If you are carrying an ice-axe, it is best to move the axe from one placement into the next while you are still in-balance. The axe should never move while you are out-of-balance. If it stays stationary while out-of-balance, it will provide an extra point of security during less secure movements.
The above picture shows a climber taking an out-of-balance step in snow. Note that his left foot is directly above his right foot.
Clearly in the snow that the above climber is moving in, such a step is not required. One need only to move in-balance and out-of-balance in terrain that requires additional security...like on steep ice...
The in-balance out-of-balance step is incredibly useful while wearing crampons. The cross-over step allows the ankles to bend in such a way that all of the crampon points on the bottom of the boot are engaged in the ice. You'll note in the above picture, that the climber's toe is nearly pointing down hill. This allows every point to engage.
The movements required for good in-balance and out-of-balance walking are not hard to master. And the reality is that most of the time that you are moving in the mountains, such steps are not required at all. It is only when the terrain becomes steep or dangerous that it really becomes important. Indeed, the important part is not just moving properly but being aware of your movement. In other words, always knowing when you are in-balance or out-of-balance leads to more security in the mountains.
--Jason D. Martin
5/24 -- Houston, TX -- Mark Synnott, Life on the Vertical: Buy Tickets.
5/25 - 5/28 -- Telluride, CO -- Mountainfilm Film Festival: http://mountainfilm.org
6/3 -- Idyllwild, CA -- Idyllwild Climbers Festivial
The weather and cragging has been so stellar here in the Northwest lately that its been easy to forget about the cold, snowy way up north. So this week we head to Alaska...
Here's an inspiring clip documenting just what it takes to put up a new alpine route Weekend Warrior style. Get training...
With the Denali season in full swing I thought some of the folks back home might like to see just what our climbers are experiencing on the mountain. This vid does a nice job of capturing the Denali experience, minus the storms, tent-time, and zero visibility.
Sticking with the Alaska theme, we move to the Child's Glacier for a little surf session in mother nature's wave pool.
Go get it this weekend!!
In the following clip, a climber demonstrates two things. First, he shows us how to tie a munter hitch on a carabiner clipped to a harness. And second, he shows us how to mule off a munter hitch that is clipped to a locker on a pre-equalized anchor.
The munter-mule is one of the most useful combination's that one can employ in any rock rescue scenario. It provides the basis for load transfers and for a number of other rescue techniques.
In the video, the climber refers to the mule knot as a slip knot...which it is, but the official name for what he is doing is the "mule."
It is important to watch how the climber releases the mule. He never takes his hand off the break strand. I believe that the most common mistake that people make in this particular setting is that they completely let go of the break strand as they jump their break hand up the strand and closer to the hitch. When you practice, be aware of this and be careful to avoid letting go of the break strand.
--Jason D. Martin
Northwest:
Putting news from the Canadian Rockies in the northwest section is a bit of a stretch I admit, but this is just too cool to ignore....
Jon Walsh and Josh Wharton ran Mt. Robson's Emperor Face in 18 hours bagging the second ascent of Infinite Patience. Read more here.
Gold Bar Boulders vehicle access revoked. Climbers may no longer access the Gold Bar boulders by vehicle through the DNR gate on Reiter Road, however the road is still open to foot traffic. NW Granite reports here on the closure.
Nikolai Popov, of Seattle, was skiing in a remote area near Whistler in British Columbia on Sunday, when he punched into a crevasse on Canada's Decker Mountain. A local SAR team extracted him uninjured after 2 hours in the hole. Read more.
Desert Southwest:
Heather Robinson has joined the tribe of women who climb 5.14 with the first female ascent of Mon Pote Assiss (5.14a) outside of Vegas. More here.
Colorado:
Daniel Woods has added a 5.14d in Clear Creek Canyon.
Climbing has more here.
Alaska:
AAI's Alaska season is in full swing!
Our Denali Team 1 just returned to Talkeetna after what lead guide Alasdair Turner coined, “the coldest expedition I’ve ever been on.”
Mike Pond and Denali Team 2 should be established at the 14,200' camp at this point and planning strategy for their moves on the upper mountain.
Andrew Yasso's Denali Team 3 will be moving to Camp 2 tomorrow.
To read the complete dispatches click here.
Here's a cool report in Alpinist about a French team's experience on Bear Tooth and Moose's Tooth.
Himalaya:
The oldest American to scale Mount Everest is heading back to the mountain again this season to climb the peak from both sides. More here.
In a follow-on to last week's report of low snowfall and dangerous conditions on Everest, the 2012 National Geographic/North Face attempt to repeat the 1963 American route up Everest's West Ridge has changed its objective. Team leader Conrad Anker has decided that the Hornbein Couloir doesn't have enough snow to allow safe climbing. Read the blog post here.
Notes from All Over:
Facing a steep, blank section on your next wall? Put away the drill. Bat-hooking, dowels, and bolts are a thing of the past. Engineering students at Utah State University have devised the "Personal Vacuum Assisted Climber." Batteries not included. See it in action here.
So you want to get paid to climb the Matterhorn? Here's your chance, plus a trip to Disneyland. Disney announced this week that real mountain climbers will start scaling the artificial peak again June 15. The Disney Auditions website recently posted the call for resumes. Only real mountain climbers need apply. Read more here.
French free soloist Alain Robert is at it again in Paris. Here's a video:
NORTHWEST:
Conditions in the Pacific Northwest couldn't be better. It's been clear, sunny, warm and beautiful. The trip reports have been rolling in. I've linked to a few below. Personally I got out to Mt. Erie and took this great shot of Guide Doug Foust. Doug brought the sun with him from Las Vegas for a touch of stellar climbing overlooking the Puget Sound.
Mt. Stuart: Ice Cliff Glacier T.R.
Mt. Baker: North Ridge
Mt. Baker: The American Alpine Institute recently conducted part of its annual new
guides training on the North Side of Mount Baker. While up there we dug
out the pit toilet immediately below Harrison Camp (Mirkwood) and also dug
a water-hole down to the creek in the drainage just west of camp.
As most of you who work on the mountain are aware, the bridge across Grouse
Creek is out. We were able to find an easy snow crossing about a half an
hour up the drainage. On the way out, we opted for the more traditional
snowy log crossing, which we found just a few minutes down-creek of where
the bridge normally stands. One guide elected to ford the creek at a wide
spot just below the snowy log and encountered ankle deep water.
There is still approximately two miles of road-walking to the trailhead.
We climbed the North Ridge yesterday and found it to be in relatively easy
condition, with minimal crevasses on the approach.
Prusik Peak: West Ridge, Burgner/Stanley and Solid Gold
Mt Rainier: Ingraham Direct
Falcon Closures:
Leavenworth: Midnight and Noontime Rocks closed April 1 - July 31 for raptor nesting.
I-90 Corridor: http://www.seattlepi.com/news/article/Wash-rock-wall-popular-with-climbers-falcons-3504428.php
Statewide Updates compiled by Alasdair Turner: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/1064736/gonew/1/2012_Bird_Closures_Updated_Inf#UNREAD (Thanks Alasdair!)
Gold Bar Climbing Access: As of Winter 2012 the Washington Climbers Coalition (WCC) has secured access to the gate on the road which leads up to the Gold Bar boulders and the approach to Zeke’s Wall. Climbers who are members of the WCC are welcome to climb at the Gold Bar Boulders and to park there for access to Zeke’s Wall, as guests of the Manke Timber Company. Please note: all climbers using this road must be members of the WCC and have a WCC sticker as well as a valid Discover Pass.
- Climbing Access and Other Beta: Washington Climbers Coalition
- Route and Conditions from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.
- Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center
- Mountain Specific Weather Forecasting.
- Forecast for Mount Rainier.
ALASKA:
JOSHUA TREE:
ALPS:
It's a common enough site. A young man pulls on his rock shoes and clips on his chalk bag. The next thing you know he's blasting up the wall without a rope or a harness.
Someone nearby says, "that guy's stupid."
And someone else disagrees.
And then someone yells something at the soloist. "Hey!" the person shouts. "Don't you know that's stupid?"
And so it goes. People argue the value and the dangers of soloing on the ground. Eventually someone irresponsibly tries to get the soloist's attention, which makes his position far more precarious.
When in the field it's common for climbers to ask me what I think about soloing. Most expect me to universally condemn it. But I can't. It's hard for me to dictate to someone else what their climbing should or should not be. This conversation exists throughout the internet. Here is a great thread on the subject.
One of the main points of contention is the question of exactly what soloing is. Is it soloing if you do a highball boulder problem? Is it soloing if you climb a third-class ridge? What about a fourth-class ridge? What about a 5.0 ridge?
At some point each of us has to decide what soloing is for ourselves. And there's the rub. A person who is a non-climber might see third-class movement as the epitome of danger, whereas a climber might not even think about it. In the mountains, climbers commonly solo "easy" terrain to move fast. The question is what is easy ground? It's going to be different for everybody.
A soloist who falls is likely to die. But if you're riding a motorcycle fast and you fall you're likely to die too. Some might see soloing as akin to riding a motorcycle. Falls are uncommon because the rider/soloist stays in control. But when they happen, they are very serious.
It's hard for me to universally condemn soloing because for some the reward is worth the risk. Most soloists don't see what they're doing as being that risky because they're on terrain where they feel extremely comfortable. Does that mean I'm going to solo 5.10 or even 5.5, at this point in my life, probably not. Each of us has to make our own decisions about the risks that we take while climbing. And it is not really our jobs to dictate what's right and what's not right to those outside our parties who are unlikely to impact anyone else.
One might argue that if a soloist falls while you are in the mountains, that you will then be impacted by their decision. You will be responsible for administering first aid or calling for help. This is true. But will telling somebody -- especially a young male soloist -- that you think what they're doing is stupid, change the individual's perspective or will it harden it? I suspect that it will harden it.
Climbing is a very personal sport and we all have opinions about how it should be done. But I feel like those opinions, especially where soloing is concerned, are best left to the ground. Soloists have every right to explore the mountains just like everyone else. And indeed, I believe that they should be left alone while doing it as responsibly as they can...
--Jason D. Martin
Over the thirteen years that I've been guiding, I've decided that the greatest enemy to the climber is not the rain, it's not the snow and it's not the wind. Instead, it is the sun. There is nothing more relenting and nothing that will have such dire long term effects as the sun.
There was a time in my life when I went from working in the heat of the desert directly to high altitude snow. These are both places where the sun is far more dangerous than in a city. And while I'm not aware of any reports of a higher incidence of skin cancer among climbers, it wouldn't surprise me if this were the case.
The most common places for climbers to get burned are on the tops of the ears, the tip of the nose and on the lips. High altitude climbers on glaciers will also see burns develop on the roof of their mouths and inside their nostrils.
It might seem obvious, but it is incredibly important to wear sunscreen and cover as much skin as possible when you are in bright sunlight. Over the years I've had a few people on glaciers who decided that they "tan well" and elected not to wear sunscreen. In each of these cases, the climbers contracted serious burns that were so bad, they actually scabbed up.
Whether in the desert or at high altitude one must apply sunscreen and then reapply it often.
Many climbers on big mountains will wear a Buff to cover their faces or will carry multiple bandannas to pin around their faces and necks "Al Qaeda" style. Most will wear sunglasses with a nose beak. And many will apply sunscreen inside the nostrils.
Sunshirt
These hiking oriented shirts can be found at most outdoor stores.
Following is a quick breakdown of how to treat a sunburn from the Sunburn Resource:
1. When treating sunburn, it is very important to prevent further damage or irritation. To prevent sunburned skin from getting worse, keep from further direct exposure to the sun, and stay indoors as much as possible.Following is a short video on sunburn treatment:
2. Closely observe the affected areas for blisters. When blisters are present, this means that the skin has been severely damaged, and complications are highly probable. Don’t try to break them, or you’ll increase the risk of infection. If blisters are present on a large area of the skin, get to a hospital’s emergency room immediately. Other instances that warrant medical attention right away are when severe swelling causes breathing difficulty, when pain on the affected area is terrible, and when serious swelling occurs around the limbs such that it threatens to constrict blood flow and cause hands or feet to go numb or turn bluish. Too much sun exposure can also cause other related ailments, such as sun poison or heat stroke. When any of these are suspected or when high fever is detected, consult a doctor immediately.
3. Take pain relievers to help ease the pain and swelling. Aspirin and ibuprofen are examples of oral medications commonly taken to minimize these sunburn symptoms, but do avoid giving aspirin to a child or teenager. Also, consult a doctor before taking any pain killer if you’re also taking prescribed medication.
4. Drink lots of water. This will help you regain lost fluids in your body, as well as aid your system in its recovery from sunburn. Fresh fruit juice, such as watermelon, is also a good alternative. Avoid alcoholic and caffeinated beverages, as these may cause further dehydration.
5. Regularly apply a cool, soothing cream or aloe lotion to the affected area to keep it moist. Aloe extract has powerful healing properties, and is most effective in its pure form. Vitamin enriched lotions and moisturizers may also help speed healing. When treating moderate to severe burns, 1% hydrocortisone cream may also be used. Avoid using butter, oil, and strong ointments on burned skin, as these will only irritate and worsen sunburn symptoms.
On mountains like Denali, climbers must completely cover their skin.6. Shower with cool water whenever possible. This should help ease the pain and discomfort on your skin until it begins to heal. Use very mild soap, and refrain from using abrasive personal skin products, such as exfoliating skin formulas and body scrubs to avoid irritation.
7. Wear loose-fitting clothes made of natural fibers, such as cotton or silk, as sunburned skin tends to be extremely sensitive, and harsher fabrics will do more harm than good. When heading outdoors, wear long sleeved shirts and long pants that cover the affected areas.
8. Leave peeling skin alone. When your skin starts peeling, try your very best not to scratch, scrub or strip the dry skin off. The layer of skin underneath the peeling is still very sensitive, and will only lead to further skin damage when forcibly exposed. Just continue using moisturizer to help relieve itching and dryness.
--Jason D. Martin
5/7 -- West Chester, VA -- Dean Kamazes, Life in Motion: Buy Tickets.
5/12/ - 5/13 -- Mazama, WA -- Highway 20 Ski Party.
5/12 - 5/13 -- New York, NY -- Peak Experience VII, Climb Everest without Leaving Manhattan: Learn More.
5/15 -- Twin Falls, ID -- Clean the Crag Bouldering Competition: idahoclimber1@gmail.com
5/16 -- Anchorage, AK -- Kit DesLauriers, Journey through the Arctic Refuge: Buy Tickets.
5/17 - Seattle, WA -- The Old Breed, Steve Swenson's ascent of Saser Kangri II: Toilet for Vantage Fundraiser
5/24 -- Houston, TX -- Mark Synnott, Life on the Vertical: Buy Tickets.
5/25 - 5/28 -- Telluride, CO -- Mountainfilm Film Festival: http://mountainfilm.org
6/3 -- Idyllwild, CA -- Idyllwild Climbers Festivial
For this week's videos, we're featuring the Mont Blanc range, and we've got a couple of awesome videos: the first one is on the Swiss Direct route on the Grand Capucin, a great tower of granite on the Mont Blanc group.
This next video is of a climb of Les Droites North Face of the Mont Blanc massif.
This last video is something a little different - the video is of some speedflying (skiing with a paraglider on) in Chamonix. We don't usually show many speedflying videos, but this video has such great scenery of the area, that I couldn't resist showing it.
Have a great weekend!
The ethics of leaving gear in the mountains or at the crag is complex. Some might consider anything left behind anywhere, akin to abandoning gear. Indeed, some National Parks and the Bureau of Land Management identify any gear left behind for any reason at all as abandoned.
So under these draconian policies, if you leave a tent up on a mountain, hike down to your car to do a resupply, and then bring your food back up, a ranger could decide that you've abandoned your tent. And while resupplying is not a common tactic, it definitely happens to some extent in every mountain range in the country.
There are three tactics that climbers regularly employ that require them to leave equipment unattended for -- potentially -- extended periods of time. These include fixed ropes, caches, and fixed draws. And unfortunately, not every climber is educated on the ethics of these issues, so sometimes gear is stolen.
Aid climbers commonly fix lines on big walls. They will climb as high as they can, fix ropes and then rappel to the ground and return to camp. Their ropes will remain fixed in position. The following day, they will climb up the rope with mechanical ascenders to reattain their high point. These lines are regularly unattended at night and sometimes during the day. Obviously, these climbers are trusting that the equipment will not only be there when they return, but also that nobody will have messed with it creating a dangerous situation.
Mountaineers fix lines on steep and exposed snow or ice slopes. These types of ropes tend to be set-up by guides or by large expeditions that need to get a lot of people through a dangerous section quickly. Fixed ropes in a mountaineering setting are almost always left on popular trade routes that require them. However, occasionally a person will leave a fixed line on a less popular route to help facilitate quick movement early in the morning.
Occasionally, large groups will set short fixed lines at cragging areas to help beginners safely move up and down a sketchy section. Unlike the other examples, these lines are unlikely to ever be left unattended for more than a couple of hours.
Obviously in every example, the loss of a fixed line could result in a dangerous situation. It's pretty unlikely that somebody straight-out abandoned a rope in decent shape that is clearly tied off for a reason...
In many mountaineering and expeditionary settings, a food or gear cache is an important part of a team's strategy. Commonly these cache's are buried in the snow and marked with wands or an avalanche probe. If such a cache were to disappear, it could mean the end of an expedition...it could also be very dangerous for those who were expecting it to be in place.
It is the responsibility of those who employ the use of fixed lines and caches to clean them up when they are done. If they don't, this creates a negative impression about climbers with land managers and the public. If land managers know who abandoned a cache (in a place like Denali National Park), they will impose a fine. Additionally, climbers who permanently leave these types of things behind provide a better argument for the ethically challenged to steal your cache or your fixed line.
Photo by Ian Caldwell
Many high-end climbers (5.11-5.15 climbers) regularly employ the use of fixed draws on their projects. In other words, they leave draws fixed on hard bolted sport climbs so that they can easily come back in order to continue working on the ascent of their routes. Many sport climbers will come back to the same climb over and over again, sometimes logging weeks or even months, working to successfully complete their climbs.
This technique of "working" a climb used to be looked-down upon, but has become the norm for people trying to climb very difficult routes. The technically hardest rock climbs in the world are now regularly being climbed this way.
The issue with this technique is that it is now common for climbing draws to be almost permanently left on hard climbs. There are two problems with this. First, some land managers don't like the nearly permanent installation of these draws. And second, the fact that these draws have been left behind provides a major temptation to individuals who don't know any better and for thieves.
In the Winter of 2010, three climbers confronted an individual who was systematically stripping draws off of hard climbs at Smith Rock State Park. Instead of physically attacking the individual for stealing draws, the climbers kept level heads and educated the individual about what he was doing and how it affected them. Luckily for the climbing community, these climbers elected to film the confrontation for educational purposes. A video of the incident can be seen below:
Picnic Lunch Wall Draw Thief from Ian Caldwell on Vimeo.
There are many climbers out there who don't like the fact that there are bolts in the rock. And there are many climbers out there who really don't like the fact the bolts have draws permanently affixed to them. But when all is said and done, regardless of your beliefs about this issue, if you know that the draws have been set to assist in a climber's ascent, then taking them is stealing.
There is controversy around each of these three topics. But fixed lines, caches and fixed draws are an important part of many climbers experiences and it is important to respect those who choose to employ such tactics as long as they do it in a way that is in line with a local climbing area's ethics.
--Jason D. Martin
Northwest:
Forecasters decided that conditions warranted a special forecast for May 7th and 8th.
Read more here. A good reminder to stay heads-up in the backcountry while spring conditions develop.
Highway 20 is getting closer to being open for the summer! Eastside crews met westside crews on Monday May 7th. WA DOT is hoping to open the highway on Thursday or Friday.
Read more here.
Mark your calandars! A few weeks ago we reported that Americans Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Freddie Wilkinson won a 2012 Piolets d'Or for their ascent of Saser Kangri II (7,518m), India.
Check out the film in Seattle on May 17th!
Mother's Day is this sunday! Which means it is time to break out the prom dress and head up Mount Saint Helens for the annual climb. More info on permits, conditions, and pics here.
Sierra:
Searchers have located the body of a skier, who's been missing in Mono County for nearly two weeks. With the warmer temperatures, even in the higher elevations, snow conditions have been affected and several avalanches have been seen in this area over the past several weeks. Read more here.
Tioga Pass opened May 7th! Go get it...
Here's the NPS link, and CalTrans here.
Alaska:
AAI's Alaska season is in full swing! We have two teams on Denali and one on Mt. Hunter. At the moment, everyone is hunkered down and bracing for foul weather, but it looks like sunshine is on the way! Read the expedition dispatches here.
It is turning out to be a good season in the Alaska Range. Climbing reports on two new routes on Mt. Bradley here.
Himalaya:
Cory Richards, who was helicoptered off Mount Everest over fears of altitude sickness said on Thursday he will not be allowed to rejoin his team's effort to scale the world's highest peak. Read more here.
An extremely dry season on Everest is making for severe rockfall hazard, prompting Russell Brice to pull his team off the mountain. Rock and Ice has more details about the hazard, injuries and evacuations here.
An avalanche has stopped the Samdo 2012 (Medical Aid Mountaineering) expedition to climb Pang Puche on the nepal-tibetan border. Alpinist has details here.
Notes from All Over:
"Was that nine lives or ten?" Check out these pics from an incredible April 18th avalanche escape on Annapurna here.
NORTHWEST:
Aerial Photos of Mt. Baker and Mt. Shuksan taken May 7th by Jeff Reis. Full size photos are available by request.
Highway 20: Follow the progress of snow clearance for re-opening hopefully this weekend.
Falcon Closures:
Leavenworth: Midnight and Noontime Rocks closed April 1 - July 31 for raptor nesting.
I-90 Corridor: http://www.seattlepi.com/news/article/Wash-rock-wall-popular-with-climbers-falcons-3504428.php
Statewide Updates compiled by Alasdair Turner: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/1064736/gonew/1/2012_Bird_Closures_Updated_Inf#UNREAD (Thanks Alasdair!)
Gold Bar Climbing Access: As of Winter 2012 the Washington Climbers Coalition (WCC) has secured access to the gate on the road which leads up to the Gold Bar boulders and the approach to Zeke’s Wall. Climbers who are members of the WCC are welcome to climb at the Gold Bar Boulders and to park there for access to Zeke’s Wall, as guests of the Manke Timber Company. Please note: all climbers using this road must be members of the WCC and have a WCC sticker as well as a valid Discover Pass.
- Climbing Access and Other Beta: Washington Climbers Coalition
- Route and Conditions from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.
- Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center
- Mountain Specific Weather Forecasting.
- Forecast for Mount Rainier.
ALASKA:
SIERRA:
JOSHUA TREE:
ALPS:
When I first heard about Twitter, I thought it was dumb.
Outdoor social media guru, Sara Lingafelter, (also known as rock climber girl, after her extremely popular blog, RockClimberGirl.com) came to visit us in 2009. At that time she introduced us to the art of tweeting.
We started slow. Really slow.
But we got some tweets out there are started to get a few followers.
And in an email to the guides, I even wrote, "we're on twitter now. So if you're interested, check out @AlpineInstitute, but if you don't know what Twitter is, don't worry about it. It's kinda' stupid.
My initial response was more due to the fact that some people use Twitter to announce things to the world that don't matter. I could care less if your grocery cart has a squeeky wheel. And I definitely don't care if the person next to you on the bus smells bad...
But then I discovered that Twitter can be fun and useful. This became especially true when we discovered some of the best "Twitterbugs" out there.
Here is a list of some of our favorites:
Climbing Gear Shops:
@AAI_Shop - Yep, that's our gear shop, chocked full of equipment specialists that work with our guides to understand the strengths and weaknesses of every type of outdoor equipment that we use!
Climbing, Skiing, and Mountaineering News:
The following is a list of the best of the best when it comes to climbing and skiing news:
@AmericanAlpine, @AlpinistMag, @ClimbingMag, @SkiingMag, @OutsideMagazine, @YosemiteNews, @rockandice, @GrippedMagazine, @BackpackerMag, @AccessFund, @MtRescueAssoc, @UIAAMountains, @supertopo
National Park, National Forest and BLM News and Information:
@NPCA -- This is the National Parks Conservation Association. They provide a great overview of National Parks issues.
Here are some other important twitterfeeds from land managers that regularly concern climbers and skiers:
@DenaliNPS, @JoshuaTreeNP, @BLM_Nevada, @GrandTetonNPS, @YosemiteNPS, @SequioaKingsNPS, @WrangellStENPS, @AlaskaNPS, @NCascadesNPS, @OkaWenNF, @BlackCanyonNPS, @ZionNPS, @ParksCanada
Hodgepodge of Others that We Like:
@Jetboil, @ArcTeryx, @OspreyPacks, @MtneersBooks, @ConservationNW, @SharpEndBooks, @MetoliousClimb, @CascadeClimbers, @UCMAG, @Petzl, @AMGAUSA, @ExtremeSurvival, @RichLouv, @NWF, @Wilderness, @PowderMagazine, @5Ten, @K8tlevy, @SARblip, @backpacknews, @ChildrenNature, @leavenotrace, @TetonGravity, Friends_NWAC, @OurayIcePark, @BlackDiamondUSA
Guilty Pleasure Twitterbugs:
We have one really great guilty pleasure Twitterfeed:
@DeathStarPR - These guys are really funny. They are supposed to be the PR department for the Death Star. Yeah, that Death Star, the one from Star Wars. Here are a few of my favorite tweets:
Kids, if a man in a brown bathrobe who lives in a cave offers to show you "the ways of the Force," DON'T GO. #JediAwarenessWeek
Tyler Perry is the highest paid man in Hollywood. See, this is why you guys don't deserve to not get exploded.
Nothing in life is free. Unless you can crush people's windpipes with your mind. Then people are strangely generous.
We didn't destroy Alderaan, we created the Alderaan Memorial Asteroid Park. #DeathStarCares
So that's how I waste my day. How about you guys? What am I missing that's consistently informative and interesting for the climber/skier...?
--Jason D. Martin
The Facebook post was incredibly embarrassing. "It looked like a crime scene," my wife wrote. "An entire bottle of blood red nail polish spilled from the kitchen counter top, all down the cabinet door, and ending in a 3-foot spray across the tile floor. Who could have created such a mess? My 2-year old? My 3-year old?"
I could imagine her smile as she typed the next line for all of her friends to see. "No...it was my husband! And it was HIS nail polish."
Yes, I admit it.
It was MY nail polish. And yes, I did spill it everywhere. But in my defense, I was using it to mark my climbing gear...which is exactly what I wrote in response to her post. But that didn't stop the good-natured ribbing.
When the accident took place, I was trying to update all of my gear with the latest in gear marking technology, nail polish. Most of my climbing friends and nearly all of the guides at the American Alpine Institute long ago moved away from multi-colored tape on hardware and toward the use of nail polish.
In the past, each of my carabiners had two strips of electrical tape around the spine. One strip was black and one was red. The dual colors helped to keep them from getting mixed up with other people's gear. The problem with the tape though is that it wears off. It starts to fall off in a sticky mess, creating micro-trash in the mountains.
To keep the nail polish from rubbing off, I try to paint it on near the hinge at the base of the gate and next to the nose. Because these areas are mildly inset, ropes and rocks don't tend to rub as much and the paint markings stays on for a long time.
It is also possible to mark cams and stoppers with nail polish dots in strategic locations. Look for a spot where your dots will not be easily scraped off, but where you can see them without too much trouble.
It is important to note that I still have multi-colored electrical tape on my slings, over the stitching. You definitely would NOT want to put nail polish onto a soft good like a sling. While I don't know exactly what's inside nail polish, I can only assume that the chemicals would have a negative and perhaps even dangerous impact on the material.
Those who swap partners a lot should really play it safe. Protect yourself. Mark it carefully and you'll lose less of it. Mark it poorly and your gear will slowly migrate away to your partners racks...
Jason D. Martin
UK Climbing has posted an interesting video about the danger of draws with rubber bands or rubber holders on them. This video really demonstrates how it is important to check your gear before every climb!
--Jason D. Martin
5/7 -- West Chester, VA -- Dean Kamazes, Life in Motion: Buy Tickets.
5/12/ - 5/13 -- Mazama, WA -- Highway 20 Ski Party.
5/12 - 5/13 -- New York, NY -- Peak Experience VII, Climb Everest without Leaving Manhattan: Learn More.
5/15 -- Twin Falls, ID -- Clean the Crag Bouldering Competition: idahoclimber1@gmail.com
5/16 -- Anchorage, AK -- Kit DesLauriers, Journey through the Arctic Refuge: Buy Tickets.
5/17 - Seattle, WA -- The Old Breed, Steve Swenson's ascent of Saser Kangri II: Toilet for Vantage Fundraiser
5/24 -- Houston, TX -- Mark Synnott, Life on the Vertical: Buy Tickets.
5/25 - 5/28 -- Telluride, CO -- Mountainfilm Film Festival: http://mountainfilm.org
6/3 -- Idyllwild, CA -- Idyllwild Climbers Festivial
This first video shows some cool climbing and slacklining at the Totempole in Tazmania. Can anybody spot the "less than ideal" pro placement about halfway through the video?
Usually the Weekend Warrior videos are featuring some pro climber or skier, on some crazy, remote line or adventure; but I stumbled upon this video made by a group of friends out at a local crag, just enjoying the great things that make climbing special to them. I'm sure each of you can relate to this in one way or another.
Have a great weekend! - James
The Alaska season has begun! Denali Team #1 is on the mountain, as is Kurt Hicks' Mt. Hunter expedition, run out of Kahiltna (Denali) Base Camp. I met with Team #1 climbers and guides as they were making their last preparations at the airstrip. This mostly consists of changing into mountain clothes and boots, making a last phone call to the "outside world," eating some rockin pizza, and weighing gear. Then, you load up the planes, step on, strap in, and say goodbye to dirt for three weeks.
Northwest:
--Zdenek Jan Weingartl passed away last week at his home in Squamish, British Columbia. Weingartl was a well-known climber with nearly four decades of route development. He owned Rock Empire, a company that imported climbing gear into Canada. It is not currently known what led to Weingartl's death. To read more, click here.
--The National Park Service recently released a prospectus for lodging and associated services in Ross Lake National Recreation Area, one of three units that comprise the Washington state’s North Cascades National Park Complex. To read more, click here.
--Deep powder at the Mt. Baker Ski Area was good for skiers and for the businesses that rely on them, according to those who watch the ski season closely. To read more, click here.
--Jennifer Eberlien assumed her duties this week as the new forest supervisor for the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest. Eberlien, who began her career 20 years ago as an archeology technician, came from the Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest, Ore., where she was the deputy forest supervisor. To read more, click here.
Read more here: http://www.bellinghamherald.com/2012/04/26/2496513/ski-season-better-than-last-year.html#storylink=cpy
Sierra:
--A photo of AAI Guide Richard Riquelme can be seen on page 35 of this month's Climbing magazine. Richard -- climbing in the Sierra -- is featured in an ad for Hilleberg tents. Richard is seen on a route called, On the Lamb, a four-pitch classic in Tuolumne Meadows.
Desert Southwest:
--Emergency crews used a helicopter to rescue a 25-year old Minnesota woman who fell while climbing a rock wall in Moab on Tuesday. The woman was climbing Ancient Art at the Fisher Towers when she fell. To read more, click here.
Colorado:
--Last week the Rocky Mountain Rescue Group completed a complex rescue of a climber who took a leader fall well off the deck in Eldorado State Park. To see how the rescue was competed, click here.
--A rancher from Gunnison County who lost his herd of cattle last fall will send three ranch hands to Conundrum Hot Springs later this week to cut up and disperse the remains of six dead cows found in a U.S. Forest Service cabin. This story made waves last month when it was reported that officials were going to dynamite the dead animals. To read more, click here.
Alaska:
--AAI Guide Kurt Hicks is playing on some smaller climbs around Denali Base Camp while prepping to climb the West Ridge. And AAI Denali Team #1 is getting ready to move up to Camp II. To read more about our Alaska season, click here.
--Backcountry pro snowboarder Jeremy Jones says he's seen the effects of climate change up close after 18 years of heading to Alaska for deep winter powder. "Our season ends a week earlier than it used to. The glacier we use to land on, we can't anymore," Jones said. It's a big part of why Jones formed Protect Our Winters in 2007 to unite snowboarders and skiers to save what they love. To read more, click here.
-- Onna Konicek's instincts warned her not to drop into the couloir in the rugged Alaskan mountains near Thompson Pass on Easter Sunday. The big-mountain freerider went anyway — and nearly paid with her life. Konicek was caught in an avalanche...and the only thing that saved her was her avalanche airbag. To read more, click here.
Himalaya:
--National Geographic is reporting that Cory Richards was evacuated from the Mount Everest Basecamp on April 28th. It appeared that he had altitude sickness. However, doctors now believe that he had a pulmonary embolism. To read more, click here.
--A team of scientists plans to conduct research on Mount Everest climbers in an effort to further knowledge of the cardiovascular system at extreme altitudes and help improve treatment for heart and lung patients. To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--A 22-year old woman died Sunday of internal bleeding after falling from Easy Keyhole at the Trapps in the Gunks. Prezant was being lowered when the anchor she was toproping from failed. To read more, click here and here.
--Syrian soldiers fired at a group of skiers along the mountainous boarder with Lebanon on Monday, wounding one, after they mistook them for smugglers. The group of four were skiing on Mt. Herman in Lebanon's east when one of the group was shot in the shoulder. To read more, click here.
--A federal judge in Montana dismissed a civil lawsuit against Greg Mortenson -- author of Three Cups of Tea -- on Monday. The four individuals who brought the suit claim that Mortenson lied in his books to boost sales. To read more, click here.
--There appears to be some progress in reopening California's Summit Rock in Santa Clara County. To read a letter from the Access Fund on the topic, click here.
--This is cool. The Ice Warriors is a new graphic novel from Poland that can be read online. Check it out, here.
NORTHWEST:
Highway 20: Follow the progress of snow clearance for re-opening.
Falcon Closures:
Leavenworth: Midnight and Noontime Rocks closed April 1 - July 31 for raptor nesting.
I-90 Corridor: http://www.seattlepi.com/news/article/Wash-rock-wall-popular-with-climbers-falcons-3504428.php
Statewide Updates compiled by Alasdair Turner: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/1064736/gonew/1/2012_Bird_Closures_Updated_Inf#UNREAD (Thanks Alasdair!)
Gold Bar Climbing Access: As of Winter 2012 the Washington Climbers Coalition (WCC) has secured access to the gate on the road which leads up to the Gold Bar boulders and the approach to Zeke’s Wall. Climbers who are members of the WCC are welcome to climb at the Gold Bar Boulders and to park there for access to Zeke’s Wall, as guests of the Manke Timber Company. Please note: all climbers using this road must be members of the WCC and have a WCC sticker as well as a valid Discover Pass.
- Climbing Access and Other Beta: Washington Climbers Coalition
- Route and Conditions from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.
- Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center
- Mountain Specific Weather Forecasting.
- Forecast for Mount Rainier.
ALASKA:
SIERRA:
JOSHUA TREE:
ALPS:
There are two ways to stow a shoulder-length runner. The first way is to simply sling it over your shoulder; and the second is to "triple-it" or turn it into a an alpine quickdraw.
If you prefer to keep runners slung over your shoulder, you should keep them oriented the same direction so that they don't get tangled. You should also consider leaving one carabiner on each runner. If they are pre-rigged with carabiners, then it is easy to simply clip the other end directly into a cam. Cams should also all be racked with their own carabiners to make this a quick and simple operation.
I usually carry some of my slings over my shoulder and others on my harness. Those on my harness are set-up as alpine quickdraws so that I can easily extend them.
Michael Silitch worked as an AAI guide for many years in the Cascades and Alaska Range and now guides for the Institute part time in the French and Swiss Alps. He has put together a nice, short video on how to make an alpine quickdraw. Check it out below:
Some climbing skills -- such as rope tricks and knots -- are best practiced on the ground. I like to refer to these skills as "TV watching skills." In other words, these are things you should practice while zoning out in front of the boob tube so that you have them completely dialed. The alpine quickdraw is just such a skill. Get it wired when it's not critical and it will be easy to make or open up when you are in cruxy situation on the sharp end of the rope...
--Jason D. Martin